WHAT

Orange Wine

WHERE

Berlou, Saint-Chinian, Languedoc, France

Jean-Marie Rimbert left Provence and planted his roots in Berlou in 1996 — a tiny village in the Saint-Chinian hills where the schist soils are steep and the vines have to work for it. His 59-acre estate is certified organic, and he farms with an eye toward keeping things alive in the soil. He makes a lot of wines, but this one is the most fun he has in the cellar.

The Vin Orange is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Rolle, all from estate fruit. It's fermented with native yeast and left on the skins for 7 days — just long enough to pick up that vivid amber-orange color, some gentle tannin grip, and a depth of flavor you don't get from a conventional white. Dried apricot, orange peel, a little honey, bright citrus acidity. Lightly filtered, vegan-friendly (fined with pea protein), bottled with minimal sulfur.

This is one of those bottles that surprises people — they're not sure what to expect, and then they finish the glass faster than they planned. Take it to a dinner where everyone's ordering different things, or open it on its own and see where it goes. Works with spicy food, tajine, rich cheeses, roasted vegetables, and apparently chocolate too.