WHAT

Nebbiolo

WHEN

1996

WHERE

Rocche di Castiglione, Castiglione Falletto, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy

Poderi e Cantine Oddero is one of Barolo's oldest estates — the family has farmed vineyards in the Langhe since the 1700s, and the first bottle of Oddero Barolo was released in 1878. Now in its 6th and 7th generations under Giacomo Oddero's daughters Mariavittoria and Mariacristina, the estate spans 35 hectares across many of Barolo's most prestigious crus: Brunate, Rocche di Castiglione, Villero, Vignarionda, and Bussia among them. They converted to certified organic farming in 2017.

The Rocche di Castiglione is a very steep south-facing site in the commune of Castiglione Falletto, at the heart of the Barolo appellation. It is rated "Outstanding" by Antonio Galloni — the equivalent of Premier Cru — and is known for producing wines of lifted aromatics, detail, and notable grace. The 1996 Barolo vintage is one of the great classical vintages of the modern era: cool, structured, long-lived. This bottle is now approaching 30 years of age and drinking beautifully — deep, broody, complex, with black tea, dried rose, tar, tobacco, iron, dark cherry, and a finish that lingers long after the glass is empty. Decant for at least an hour.