WHAT

White

WHEN

2019

WHERE

Malans, Graubünden, Switzerland

Weingut Donatsch has been in Malans since 1897 — five generations in the same village in the Bündner Herrschaft, the small stretch of Switzerland's canton Graubünden that produces the country's best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Thomas Donatsch laid the groundwork in the 1970s, planting Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc before they were officially permitted, and receiving used La Tâche barrels from the cellar master of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. His son Martin now runs the estate, and about 80% of production goes directly to Swiss Michelin-starred restaurants. The rest rarely leaves the country.

The "Unique" is the top of the house — the Grand Cru to their village and Premier Cru wines. Only the best fruit from the best parcels, fermented and aged entirely in 100% new barrique, no bâtonnage. The result is a deeply concentrated, structured Chardonnay with layers of peach, almond and nectarine, a silky texture, and a long mineral finish that earns every bit of the price. It has at least 25 years of life ahead of it.

Open it with something that can keep up — a fine fish dish, roast veal, or aged comté. Or cellar it and open it on a very good occasion.