WHAT

Sangiovese

WHEN

1998

WHERE

Greve Valley, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy

Terreno was purchased in 1988 by an American family who fell in love with Italy and the Chianti hills — at a time when land prices in the region were still within reason. Located in the Greve Valley on 50 acres of vineyards and 25 of olive orchards, the estate makes pure Sangiovese in an era when that still wasn't fashionable. Federico Staderini was brought on as consulting winemaker in 1998 — the very vintage we're selling — and helped the family articulate what would become Terreno's defining style: honest, site-expressive Chianti Classico without shortcuts. The estate has been certified organic since 2014.

The 1998 Chianti Classico Riserva is now over 25 years old and drinking beautifully. The colour has shifted to a brick-tinged garnet, and the nose is the kind of complex, evolved thing that only comes with age: dried cherry, tobacco, leather, mushroom, forest floor, iron, and a whisper of dried herbs. The palate still has freshness and grip, with elegant tannins, good acidity, and a long, savoury finish. This is a bottle for anyone who wants to understand what aged Sangiovese can become. Decant for 30 minutes and serve with aged pecorino, porcini risotto, or roasted lamb.