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Pure Nebbiolo from Treiso, one of Barbaresco's four great communes. Cantina Pertinace has been making traditional Langhe wines since 1973. The 1996 is nearly 30 years old — dried rose, mandarin, dried spice, tar. It's drinking beautifully right now.
WHAT
Red
WHEN
1996
WHERE
Treiso, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy
Cantina Vignaioli Pertinace was founded in 1973 by thirteen growers in the hamlet of Pertinace, in Treiso — one of the four communes entitled to produce Barbaresco DOCG. The name comes from the Roman emperor Publius Helvius Pertinax, who was born here in 126 AD. The cooperative is often compared to the legendary Produttori del Barbaresco: a collective of small family growers making serious, traditional Nebbiolo with no shortcuts.
The 1996 vintage in Barbaresco is one of the great ones — cool, long growing season, excellent structure and aromatics. This bottle has had nearly 30 years to find itself. What you get now is the full picture of aged Nebbiolo: dried rose petals, mandarin peel, tar, dried spices, and a silky, composed palate with integrated tannins and a finish that keeps going. It's neither flashy nor overwrought — it's just a beautiful, honest expression of one of the world's great wine regions at full maturity.
Open it tonight. Decant for 30 minutes and serve with braised lamb, aged Parmigiano, or a simple roast. Don't save it for a special occasion — this is the special occasion.